Madison’s on Hillside opens in
Williston Park
Saturday
September 1, 2012 12:04 PM By Erica
Marcus
Photo
credit: Erica Marcus
The
transformation of Williston Park’s Ivy Cottage into
Madison’s on Hillside is complete. Last week, the sleek, New
American restaurant made its debut.
In
May, veteran restaurant manager Kevin Madison bought the
14-year-old Ivy Cottage from its original owner, Joe Lester.
Madison and his chef-partner Jeffery Slade operated the Ivy
Cottage for a few months. In July they closed for a complete
renovation. The new restaurant is almost unrecognizable.
Trellises, tchotchkes and fake greenery have given way to
neutral tones and modern fixtures.
What
hasn’t changed is the restaurant’s warmth. Many of the
servers have stayed on, and Madison is a gracious host. Chef
Slade’s resumé includes The French Laundry in Yountville,
California, Le Bernardin in Manhattan and The Farmhouse in
Greenport. For Williston Park he has put together a menu of
thoughtfully composed dishes that walk the line between
comfort and innovation.
A
few nights ago we started our meal with a refreshing chilled
cucumber soup garnished with crab; a tomato salad topped with
sesame-crusted goat-cheese medallions, and a hefty portion of
delicious corn risotto with grilled shrimp.
Appetizers
run between $7 and $15. Main courses ($23 to $33) included
thyme-roasted halibut on a bed of lentils; an expertly seared
duck breast with sweet-potato puree, grilled endive and
spinach; a special of three tender lamb chops, each on its own
garnish: mashed potatoes, snap peas, a tomato tarte Tatin. The
entrees were a tad over-orchestrated for my taste (and perhaps
for Hillside Avenue), but everything was very tasty.
Madison’s
on Hillside is at 38 Hillside Ave., Williston Park,
516-877-2343.
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