This always was and still is a warm, convivial and reliable restaurant. The Italian and continental food is very good, often better and served with care. You should contentedly eat at Arturo's once a week till the millennium and then decide to start the new era with another visit.

    Arturo's has reigned on the Nassau-Queens border for decades. The place has survived trends and recessions, the advent of the pastateria and the departure of straw from the Chianti bottle.

    A sweet-voiced guitarist sings requests in several languages. The staff is ever-attentive and accommodating. It's a family gathering. After dinner, you'll be ready for anything.

    You begin with a gratis plate of Parmesan cheese, nuggets chipped from a noble wheel near the entrance. That's followed by tasty bruschetta with ripe tomatoes. Add a glass or two of red wind, and you've already got a satisfying lunch.

    The immediate temptation, however, is the cart of antipasti. A bit of baccala, or salt cod; glistening seafood salad; some well-oiled white beans; a few grilled vegetables; cracked, green Sicilian olives. And a slice of the house's signature torta, a layering of crepes, cured meats, cheese and vegetables.

    That, of course, could be a commendable meal unto itself, too. In season, the green figs paired with pale, rosy prosciutto are irrestible.

    The hot antipasto is familar and respectable, from the stuffed mushrooms and baked clams oreganata to the eggplant rollatine. Likewise, the friend calamari. Arturo's prepares a superlative stuffed artichoke, which deservedly is called a special: tender, fragrant, full of flavor.

    Pastas are dependable as appetizer, entree or middle course. Penne in a creamy marinara sauce flamed iwth Cognac is especially taste. Linguine with white clam sauce also ensures a plate wiped clean with bread. Fettuccine tossed with shiitake, portobello and porcini mushrooms trails by comparison. But the rich spaghetti alla carbonara gets things going again.

    Lobster fra diavolo has ideal seasoning, zesty with just enough spice to leave a tingle, complementing the shellfish without overwhelming it. At the other extreme, the kitchen expertly prepared a delicated dover sole meuniere. The staff performs deft tableside surgery for such dishes if you'd rather avoid the shells and bones.

    Hefty osso buco barely requires a knife. The savory meat of the large veal shank is ready to fall away on its own. The pounded and breaded veal chop capped with a tricolor salad is another appealing Milanese spin. These are preferable to overcooked stuffed roast veal in brown sauce.     Steak alla pizzaiola gets its due. The think sirloin is juicy and emboldened by the tomato sauce rife with peppers, mushrooms, garlic and basil. The straightforward frilled sirloin and grilled filet mignon are all right, too.

    A bowl of fresh fruit materializes after your entree. While slicing a pear or pitting a plum, you may find yourself glancing at the generous dessert cart. Before making a decision, order the wonderful zabaglione.

    It's a classic union of egg yolks, Marsala and sugar whisked into a foamy custard. At Arturo's this is served atop vanilla ice cream and strawberries. Two diners will be very happy, and very stingy.

    Fruit tarts are big beauties, cream puffs are fragile and packed. The cakes are invitations to seconds.

Consider one on your next visit. It's always fun to return to Arturo's.