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Terminology:

Ascot

Ascot : Accessory; a wide scarf or necktie knotted so that its broad ends are laid flat upon each other. Often pinned together with a pearl stickpin and usually worn with a cutaway tuxedo. Today all ascots are banded for ease of use.

Band Bowtie

Band Bowtie: Accessory; a bowtie with an adjustable band that wraps around the collar of the shirt and connects with a clasp. All rental bowties are now banded.

 

Banded Collar: A formal shirt, with banded collar only, no wing-like appendages. Worn with fancy button covers. Usually features a wide pleated front. Also referred to as "mandarin collar."

Besom Pocket: On a coat, a very narrow piping above the pocket slit. Can be satin besom or self (same fabric as coat) besom, with flap. 

Button Cover: Ornamental accessory device worn at the neck of the shirt, clipping onto the button of the collar. Available in many styles. Usually worn with a mandarin or crosswick collar shirt. 

Button Stance: On a coat, the position where the coat first buttons on the chest. Usually defined as a standard, low, or high button stance. 

Collar: On a coat, the turned back material that falls around the back of the neck. Can be of satin or same material as the coat. 

Comfort Collar: On a formal shirt, a manufacturing feature that allows for more comfort at the neck of the shirt. The button of the collar is attached to a small tab that slides, giving more range in movement. 

Crosswick Shirt: A very modern formal shirt with a crossover spread collar. Features a wide pleated front. Usually worn with a fancy button cover; a tie cannot be worn with this shirt. 

Cuff Links

Cuff Links: Ornamental accessory device of two parts joined by a shank, chain, or bar for passing through buttonholes to fasten shirt cuffs.

Cummerbund

Cummerbund: Accessory; a broad sash worn over the waistband of the pants. Pleats are worn with the opening facing up.

Cutaway

Cutaway: A formal coat also known as the morning suit. Usually a dark grey coat worn traditionally in the morning for weddings. Now can be worn anytime during the day.

 

Double Besom Pocket: On formal coats, two narrow pipings in satin or self material above and below the slit, without flap. 

Double Breasted

Double Breasted: A tuxedo coat which overlaps itself in the front. Often adorned with four or six buttons.

Double Breasted Vest

Double Breasted Vest: A vest which overlaps itself in the front. Often adorned with four or six buttons.

 

Euroband Tie: Accessory; a fashion tie, much like a 4-in-hand necktie with an overstated knot. Available in many colors, worn with a high cut vest.

Flap Pocket

Flap Pocket: On a coat, a standard pocket. Common on traditional coat styles.

 

Floor Level Peak Lapel: On a coat, a type of peak lapel in which the peak, rather than pointing upward, runs parallel to the floor. 

Formal Shoes: Patent leather or vinyl shoes with a glossy finish. Today's selection offers a variety of styles featuring insets and textured materials. 

4-In-Hand Tie (Necktie): Accessory; a necktie fastened with a slipknot, a man's regular necktie. Usually worn with a stroller coat. 

French Cuff: A wide shirt cuff folded back and fastened with a cufflink. Found on 100% cotton retail shirts. 

Full Back Vest: Accessory; a vest which has a full back panel sewn in.

Full Dress Tails

Full Dress Tails: A coat also known as the tailcoat, being short in the front and long in the back. Very formal. Once available only in black, now available in all colors.

 

Gorge: On a coat, where the lapels start and the collar ends. A very low gorge is down the middle of the chest. 

High Cut Vest: A vest which has more buttons on the front, causing it to close higher and closer to the collar. Worn with a bowtie, euroband 4-in-hand tie, or button covers. 

Lapel: On a coat, the turned back material that falls around the front of the coat. Can be of satin or the same material as the coat.

Laydown Collar

Laydown Collar: A shirt similar to most men's dress shirts, a regular fold over style collar. Usually with pleats.

 

Mandarin Collar: A formal shirt, with banded collar only, no wing-like appendages. Worn with fancy button covers. Usually features a wide pleated front.

Notch Lapel

Notch Lapel: On a coat, a notch is cut out between the collar and the lapel.

Peak Lapel

Peak Lapel: On a coat, the top of the lapel is pointed sharply upward and outward.

 

Pique Shirt: A white shirt with a waffle-like texture on the front panel and cuffs. Worn with matching vest and tie. Most formal.

Pique Vest

Pique Vest: A white vest with a waffle-like texture. The most traditional vest; often worn with white tie and tails.

 

Shawl Collar: On a coat, there is no change from the collar to the lapel; it is a rounding continuation of the collar. 

Spats: Short formal fabric shoe coverings worn over the instep and reaching just above the ankle, usually fastened by a strap under the foot and buttons on one side. Once used to protect shoes from mud, now a high-fashion accessory. 

Stroller: Matching tuxedo length coat to the cutaway. Worn with contrasting striped trousers, pearl vest, laydown collar shirt, and 4-in-hand tie. 

Studs: Accessories; small ornamental buttons mounted on short posts for insertion through an eyelet next to the shirt button. 

Tuxedo: Specifically used to refer to a standard length coat, single or double breasted with satin lapels. Generally used to refer to all men's formalwear. 

Vents: On a coat, an opening in the lower part of a seam; a slit in the garment. Tuxedo types: center vent, non-vented, side vented. 

Waist Coat: A coat also known as the Spencer or Eton . Resembles a full dress without tails. Worn with matching or contrasting trousers. 

Wing Collar

Wing Collar: Also known as stand up collar. A formal shirt, usually with a pleated front that has wing-like pointed appendages

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